County Warm of Conceptions: Guatemala

I'M BLOG HAPPY!

4.28.09

First some background information. So for each port we have two "Pre-Port" sessions, the nights of the two days before getting into port. The first is cultural, the second logistical. Usually an inter-port student or lecturer handles the cultural pre-port, and they tell us about the country, giving advice on what to see and such. Logistical pre-port involves the SAS staff (Executive and Associate Deans, Field Office staff, Medical staff) informing us about whether we'll be docked, basic estimates on transportation options, medical precautions, and safety information. We also have Diplomatic Briefings for some ports where an American diplomat station in the country comes to talk to us just after arriving.

So for Guatemala the common words were that Guatemala was going to be dangerous. They warned about using Chicken buses (public transportation), camping on volcanoes, going to Tikal, going to Guatemala City, going to the airport, and being out anywhere when it gets dark. Cultural pre-port, Logistical pre-port, and the Diplomatic Briefing all drove the point. It seemed like they were worried we'd all be killed as soon as we got off the ship. It was intense. So this is what was going through my head before getting there.

Now the fun part.

Just following the Diplomatic Briefing, Keith, Hussain, and I left for the coach bus that would take us to Acatenango, the third largest volcano in Guatemala and Central America. On the bus we met our two guides, Emmanuel and Oscar. Both were great, but Emmanuel was awesome. Oh, we were also given two police escorts for the trip. Yay safety!

Halfway through the ride we stopped at a gas station for water and snacks. Just as I stepped out of the bus I heard a shot ring out. It turned out to be a blown out tire someone had been filling up. Then we found out we were to change to a Chicken Bus. Oh goody. Fortunately, it was privately chartered and not dangerous.

From there began the real journey. We drove to a farm that actually owned the entire volcano. We left the bus, were relieved to see a truck that would be carrying our baggage up. Grabbing my camera and a water bottle, I was ready for the challenge ahead.

At this time we were already 6,500 ft above sea level. But we had a long way to go. And as it was soon becoming lunch time, we were excited to be shown where on the mountain we'd be stopping to eat.

Emmanuel did tell us it was going to be a hard climb, but we'd start out at a nice slow pace with either him or a local guide in front and another guide or two at the back. He introduced us to Axel and his son Daniel who would be accompanying us. And so we started. It was around 12:00 PM.

Emmanuel started out at front with Axel, and Oscar and Daniel were at the back. The pace was pretty good and the land was level, so all was fine. Soon Emmanuel faded back and Axel led. He got pretty quick. I was at the front with Keith. Soon it got harder, as we were moving faster and it was becoming steeper. I kept up though. After an hour had past we had made it to our lunch spot, a nice clear area where we could look out at the land below. We were at about 7,500 feet at this point. It was probably 1:00 PM.

Lunch was delicious. The best packed lunch on any trip we went on. Probably because it wasn't from the ship, but the tour company.

With lunch over, we began again, Axel still leading. We weren't going to make it to the summit at this time, but stopping at camp for the night instead. That was at 10,000 feet.

It got steeper and steeper. It got harder and harder. I still pushed myself to be right behind Keith and Axel, who was flying ahead. It got more and more painful and I realized I'm skinny and have no muscles.

We made stops along the way to take a break and let the others catch up a bit. But it was getting quite strenuous. I just remember how much my legs hurt. After awhile I couldn't keep up with Keith the Beast anymore and slipped back a bit.

Finally, at about 3:15 PM, I made it to the camp site. It was sweet. Tents all set up, there was somewhat of a view down to the land below. You could even see Antigua, the closest city to the volcano. The coolest part, though, was that it was completely immersed in the clouds. But it was chilly. And the air was thin.

We were greeted with hot water for tea, pineapple, and chips with salsa and guacamole. So delightful. Everyone was in pain and hungry. It was nice to simply sit by a fire and eat. We basically sat in front of the fire, drinking tea, for a few hours. Around 6:00 PM we were served dinner, hamburgers and pasta salad. We even got marshmallows and chocolate crackers for s'mores! Emmanuel also warned us we'd be waking up at 4:00 AM to leave for the summit by 5:00 AM. And so, we promptly went to bed at 7:30 PM. I did not sleep well at all. It wasn't that it was cold, because I had my awesome REI sleeping bag (thanks Jessica!) and a sweatshirt. And it wasn't that I wasn't tired, because I had climbed just over 3,000 feet. I think it was that I wasn't used to going to bed before midnight, I was anxious about the intensity of the next day, the thinness of the air, and that I was sub-consciously waiting for chupacabras to attack the camp. So I got a total of possibly one and a half hours of sleep that night.

4.29.09

At 4:00 AM, I got out of the tent and went to look at the shinning city below in the darkness. It was pretty sweet. Like looking down over a city from an airplane. We then had a small breakfast before preparing for the hike today.

Once everyone was ready, we grouped up, Emmanuel informed us the pace would be slower today, the terrain more like sand, and that the hike would be steeper today. It was 5:00 AM.

It was true. The pace was slower and it was steeper overall. Emmanuel stayed in the front this time, which didn't allow Axel to control the pace this time. Thank God!

When we began it was dark. The sun hadn't yet begun to creep up. Half an hour in it started to peek over the mountains in the distance. It was beautiful to watch it rise throughout the day.

We stopped several times for water breaks and to catch our breaths in order to fight altitude sickness. We stopped at the saddle between the two peaks of Acatenango, which allowed for such a beautiful view of nearly everything around. But the two peaks blocked some of it. We were at 12,000 feet at this time. It was 7:00 AM. And so we began the last leg of the hike to the summit.

At 7:40 AM, I was nearly there. One hill more and I was at the top. So I decided to stick it to the man and I ran it. Full on sprint, or at least the fastest I could go, considering that my calves were basically non-existant and in pain. People cheered. It was funny. I was now at 13,406 feet above sea level. Nearly 4,000 meters. Nearly two and a half miles.

I can't even begin to explain how incredible it felt to have made it up so far and how spectacular the view was. The pictures will have to do.

At the top we simply sat around, walked around to see the view, watched the next-door neighbor El Fuego shoot out smoke, and take lots of pictures.

After a bit, Emmanuel took us around the crater to get a better view of El Fuego as it spurt some more.

Then we began the trek down. Long story short, it was just as painful, but a lot faster and a lot more fun. We slid down some of the slopes, ran down some of the slopes, and some people whipped out down some of the slopes. It was a blast. But it hurt my calves, shoved my toes against my boots, and made my feet feel very raw. But it was awesome!

Along the way, we ran into (literally) the second group of SASers who had just started their trek up and were eating lunch. We took the opportunity to let them know what they were in for. Some of us may have exaggerated. I warned them of the chupacabras.

As we neared the bottom we saw a wonderful sight, that of our Chicken Bus, Esmerelda. Those of us down hopped in and we waited for everyone to get down. As soon as we were all there, we took off for Atingua... and LUNCH!

We got lunch at a nice restaurant. They served us frijoles sopa (bean soup), pollo (chicken), bistec (steak), papas (potatoes), salsa, and tortillas. It was quite delicious! For dessert I had coffee and cheesecake. Uh, that was so good.

Following lunch, we had to opportunity to explore Antigua for a bit. We simply walked around looking at some shops and checked out the Cathedral in the city center. Then, tired of moving around, we sat and waited to leave.

As soon as we got back to the ship, I ran to my cabin, took a shower, and put on some nice, fresh clothes. I had a quick bite to eat and then simply returned to my cabin, fell onto my bed, turned on the TV, uploaded pictures, watched some episodes of "How I Met Your Mother", listened to music, and went to sleep.

4.30.09

I woke up, somewhat refreshed. But as soon as I stood up I realized it was all a lie. My legs were ULTRA sore. I walked up a flight of stairs for breakfast. It was painful. I felt as though I had the legs of someone one hundred years older.

After breakfast, a group of us met up and went to explore the surrounding area. We didn't find much. Subsequently, we returned to the port where there were some little shops. We did a bit of shopping, then hired a taxi to a supermarket, got some snacks, grabbed lunch, and returned to the ship for the last time.

As I walked onto the ship, I realized it would be the last time I did. The next time I left the ship I would be leaving for the last time. It was an odd, somewhat exciting, somewhat depressing realization.

So I have six more days until I'll be back in the United States of America! And about nine days until I'm back in the northwest suburbs of Chicago! It's so crazy that it's just about over...

Anywho...

PICTURE TIME!